Yesterday was one of those days, too long out of the ocean the 5 block walk to my home break seemed an eternity. Even in the most demure two-piece I felt there was too little left to the imagination. But there it was --Queens, the late afternoon sun glistening off her perfectly formed, head high walls, firing for a mile straight out into the deep blue. I could feel it, the heady rush of blood through my veins, for what would be an exercise in hunger management. Paddling into the lineup I told myself, "I just want three, three good waves and I'll be content," forever a wild stallion, satisfaction did not come willingly. Damn, I was hungry... just kept eating it; but getting worked never felt so good. I did catch some fire, though; a wave took me from old age (outside) to Baby Queens, an indisputable fountain of youth. I had a scare then. Looking toward the island, an army of landlocked jellyfish were swimming straight for me, toes and arms flailing off their killer rental longboards, more terrifying than a Man-O-War. Wtf, it's not even 10 days past the full moon.
Rogue wave, flail flail, breath.
Sorry, Ocean... even jellyfish deserve the sea. Thoughts, words, behaviors, habits, values, destiny... keep
em positive. Quite right, thanks Gandhi. I took my cue, it was time to paddle in. In 50 minutes I got my 3 waves (plus three new shiners) and made peace with the ocean, apologizing for staying away too long.
- Only a single fin on your nine-oh makes taking 18 second head high waves (followed by another, and then another...and then another) in a word -- daunting.
- Don't fight jellyfish, they know not what they do.
- Take the wave only as long as it lives, perpetuity is not the goal, only then will it keep it's wild beauty.
- The ocean demands respect... and frequent visits. Follow her rules and she'll reward you.
Humbled, and a little worse for the wear, I hobbled back to the beach, a sunbeam shimmering from my lips. Perhaps all it takes to shimmer is a smile. ~